Summary: the heavy artillery of the chassis
The 105 mm in magnesium is a high competition room. This is not a basic setting, it is a specific solution for specific needs:
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Maximum lever arm: With 105 mm, you drop the load outward to load the outer rear tire. It is the absolute weapon when the kart is sorely lacking on the turn out of turn.
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System "2 screws": In a length of 105 mm, a one-screw tightening would be insufficient and would create an imbalance. The system to 2 screws allows you to distribute the tightening force over the entire length of the ring, ensuring a perfect maintenance on the axle without creating a single voltage point.
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Magnesium (mg): It offers valuable weight gain on non-suspended masses and thermal dissipation that stabilizes the pressure of your tires during long finals.
- Technical specifications
| Feature |
Specification |
| Mark |
CRG (Genuine Racing Parts) |
| Inner diameter |
50 mm |
| Total length |
105 mm |
| Material |
High density magnesium |
| Tightening |
Double screw (pressure balancing) |
| Series |
R2.0 (optimized design) |
| Configuration |
Complete (with 3 mounting studs) |
| Use |
Competition (very low grip / cold tracks) |
- Mounting tuto: the protocol "2 screws"
Magnesium is a powerful but rigid metal. With a 105 mm hub, the assembly must be surgical.
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Preparation: Degrow the axle perfectly. Magnesium is more subject to sliding than aluminum if the surface is not immaculate.
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Insertion: Slide the hub. If the keystip resists, check that there is no burr. Never use mallet.
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Tightening (critical step):
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Use a torque. Magnesium has a lower breakage threshold than aluminum.
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The cross method: Tighten a bit of the bottom, then the top one, then start again. Never block a 100% screw before attacking the second.
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The goal is to close the hub slot parallel over the entire length of the 105 mm.
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Inspection: After the first roll, check the tightening. Magnesium "is set up" at the first heater.
💡 Michel's trick
"The 105 mm mg is for when all the rest failed. The trick: A 105 mm hub rigidifies the rear yard tremendously. If, up these hubs, you feel that the Kart 'jumps' in the middle of the turn is that your rear train has become too rigid for the adhesion of the moment. My Pro Council: Before putting shorter hubs, check if your axle would not be too hard (eg, go from a 'hard' axle to a 'medium'). If the kart jumps, it is necessary to soften the chassis, not necessarily change hub. Keep these 105 mm for cold runs or very smooth coatings that lack gum. "
❓ FAQ SEO (Frequently Asked Questions)
Q: Why 2 clamping screws ?
A: On 105 mm, only one screw could not ensure uniform holding over the entire length. The 2 screws guarantee that the hub does not "spin" on the axle during the strong turning output accelerations.
Q: Does the magnesium really oxidize ?
A: Yes, it's his weakness. Magnesium reacts to moisture and salt. After each race day, a dry cloth shot is mandatory. If you leave the kart in a wet garage, your mg hubs will cover white spots (oxidation) in a few weeks.
Q: Can I use this hub for a leisure category ?
A: It's technically possible, but it's an expensive and unnecessary purchase. The magnesium is reserved for competition pilots who need to win the last tenths and who monitor their tire pressure at the thousandth.
✅ Ready for the track ?
You have equipped your kart with the top of the technical basket. To finalize your preparation: