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Summary: the role of the cap
The cap is not just a lid. It fulfills three essential missions for safety:
-
Sealing: It prevents the brake fluid (corrosive) from escaping, especially during high track vibrations.
-
Protection: It isolates the brake fluid (which is hygroscopic, that is to say it absorbs moisture) from the ambient air. Water in the liquid is the enemy n ° 1 of the braking (risk of vapor lock / air bubbles).
-
Pressure compensation: Most Birelart plugs incorporate a free launching system (or via a membrane) that allows the level of liquid to drop when the pads wear away without creating a vacuum of air in the tank.
- Technical specifications
| Feature | Specification |
| Mark | Birelart / Freeline (original parts) |
| Material | High density plastic or anodized aluminum (according to version) |
| Associated seal | Flat or toric seal (indispensable) |
| Compatibility | 22SR / 22SRR pump |
| Use | Brake fluid tank closure (dot 4/5.1) |
- Mounting Tuto: Golden Rules
Never tighten this plug with a clip, it could crack.
-
Net cleaning: Before putting the cap back, clean the tank thread with a clean cloth. If there is dried liquid or track dust in the net, the cap will force and you may deteriorate the plastic.
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Verification of the seal: Always check that the seal (often a small o-ring or a rubber washer) is in place under the cap. If it is absent or cut, the liquid will ooze on the chassis, which is very corrosive for painting.
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Hand tightening: Tighten by hand only, until contact. Once in touch, a slight additional tightening (a quarter turn) is enough. Braking does not require submarine sealing, just projection protection.
💡 Michel's trick
"This is the classic mistake of the beginner: Too much tighten the cap. The trick: Many pump plugs have a tiny vent hole (laid). If you tighten like a brute or you put tape on the plug to better protect ', you plug the vent. Consequence: The pump creates an internal depression, the liquid does not go down to the stirrup, and your pedal becomes very hard or even inefficient. My Pro Council: Always check that the small air hole on the top of the cap is perfectly free from dirt. "
❓ FAQ SEO (Frequently Asked Questions)
Q: My oozing cap, should I change the complete plug ?
R: Not necessarily. In 90% of cases, it's just the internal O-ring that has become hard or overwritten. First change the seal. If the plug itself is cracked, so yes, replace it immediately.
Q: Can we put a plug of another brand ?
A: No. The screw steps (the thread) of the karting brake tanks are very specific to each brand (Birel, , CRG, , OTK). A cap that 'seems' screwing can destroy the thread of your aluminum tank.
Q: Why did my cork become white / powdery ?
A: It is a chemical reaction with the brake fluid that overwhelmed or was poorly wiped. The brake fluid is very corrosive for plastics and paints. Clean immediately with the liquid flows on the cap.
✅ Ready for your maintenance ?
The cap is the last step to seal your system after purging. Finally:
-
[Liquide de frein (DOT 4/5.1)] (Never fill with RAS edge, leave a slight space for expansion).
-
[Chiffon propre] (To wipe all traces of liquid immediately).
40.4270.00
6 Items
Specific References
FREELINE BRAKE PUMP DIAM 22...
€156.00
The cap is not just a lid. It fulfills three essential missions for safety:
-
Sealing: It prevents the brake fluid (corrosive) from escaping, especially during high track vibrations.
-
Protection: It isolates the brake fluid (which is hygroscopic, that is to say it absorbs moisture) from the ambient air. Water in the liquid is the enemy n ° 1 of the braking (risk of vapor lock / air bubbles).
-
Pressure compensation: Most Birelart plugs incorporate a free launching system (or via a membrane) that allows the level of liquid to drop when the pads wear away without creating a vacuum of air in the tank.