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The hub of 95 mm is one of the longest models available in the range CRG. In karting, the length of the hub is directly correlated to the "lever arm" applied to the axle:
Deported support: With 95 mm, you drop the load of the wheel outwardly. This helps to charge the rear train in support more, ideal for tracks where you miss moving out of turn.
Aluminum rigidity: Unlike magnesium, this aluminum version offers high structural stiffness and excellent durability, while being easier to maintain and less sensitive to oxidation. Finishing Gold (anodized) effectively protects the part against premature wear.
| Feature | Specification |
| Mark | CRG (Genuine Racing Parts) |
| Inner diameter | 50 mm (Standard Competition) |
| Total length | 95 mm |
| Material | High resistance aeronautical aluminum |
| Finishing | Anodized Gold (Gold) |
| Series | R2.0 (optimized design for precision) |
| Configuration | Complete (with 3 mounting studs) |
| Use | Competition (Rear Grip Search) |
Mount a 95 mm hub request for rigor, as cantilever is important.
Preparation: Clean your axle perfectly with a brake degreaser. Any trace of old grease can cause a hub rotation on the axle during high acceleration.
Setting up: Slide the hub. If it strengthen, check the key. Never use mallet to force the entrance: it would damage anodized treatment and the internal structure.
Tightening (crucial): * Given the length of 95 mm, the hub body is more rigid. It is imperative of tighten the screws alternately and progressively.
Never block a screw thoroughly before attacking the second. Make several passages (up / down) to ensure uniform pressure on the perimeter of the axle.
Verification: Once in place, turn the wheel. No axial game should be noticeable.
"The 95 mm is the weapon for precarious grip conditions or very technical circuits. The trick: A 95 mm hub rigidifies the rear train enormously. If you mount these hubs and you feel that the kart bounces' or 'jump' in the cornering medium, it is because your rear train has become too rigid for the adhesion of the day. My Pro Council: In this case, do not disassemble everything! Enter your hubs of a few millimeters inward to soften the geometry. If the phenomenon persists, iron out of 75 mm. The 95 mm must be reserved for situations where you really need to 'shoot' on your rear tires. "
Q: Is this hub heavier than the magnesium version ?
A: Yes, aluminum is denser than magnesium. However, it is much more durable in time and less sensitive to cracks during shocks, making it the ideal choice for a regular club and competition use.
Q: Why is the R2.0 version more expensive ?
A: The R2.0 version has a more precise CNC machining that guarantees better concentricity. This means that the wheel turns rounded, which reduces the vibrations in the high speed rear yard.
Q: Can I mount these hubs on a axle of 30 or 40 mm ?
A: No, this hub is strictly reserved for axles of 50 mm. The diameter is an absolute precision rating.
You have robust and efficient equipment. To finalize your assembly:
[Nettoyant frein] (The best friend to ensure the adhesion of the hub on the axle).
[Goujons de rechange] (With 95 mm long, your wheel studs work more).
In karting, switching from a standard hub (40 mm) to a longer hub (75 mm) is a common technique for adjusting geometry. The 75 mm allows:
Raise the back path Without adding spacers (the hub itself makes the wheel bears later).
Increase side rigidity: The lever arm being longer, it exerts a more direct stress on the axle, which helps to load the outer rear wheel in turn further.
Improve motor skills: This is the ideal setting if you feel that your kart is missing "grip" out of curve.
The hub of 40 mm long is often considered the "standard" or "versatile" value on adult karts equipped with a 30 mm (x30, axle, Rotax, Kz, ok). Unlike very long (75-90mm) hubs that considerably rigidify the rear, or the very short (35mm) that fully freed the chassis, the 40 mm Offers neutral and healthy behavior, ideal for starting a setting session before refining.
Moyeu AR MG r-line CRG. Elle porte la roue avant et pivote avec la direction.
The 95 mm in magnesium is an extreme room. This is not comfortable equipment, it is a precision tool for high-level drivers (KZ, OK, X30 senior categories).
This hub is not a simple accessory. Unlike aluminum versions, the magnesium offers two major benefits in competition:
Lightness: Reduction of non-suspended masses, which facilitates the rotation of the axle and improves the vivacity of the kart.
Thermal management: Magnesium is better dissipating the heat generated by the tires. This helps stabilize tire pressure during long races (eg KZ or endurance events), avoiding excessive overheating of the gum.
The length of 78 mm Offers an important lever arm, ideal for loading the back train and gaining motor skills.
The 105 mm in magnesium is a high competition room. This is not a basic setting, it is a specific solution for specific needs:
Maximum lever arm: With 105 mm, you drop the load outward to load the outer rear tire. It is the absolute weapon when the kart is sorely lacking on the turn out of turn.
System "2 screws": In a length of 105 mm, a one-screw tightening would be insufficient and would create an imbalance. The system to 2 screws Allows you to distribute the tightening force over the entire length of the ring, ensuring a perfect maintenance on the axle without creating a single voltage point.
Magnesium (mg): It offers valuable weight gain on non-suspended masses and thermal dissipation that stabilizes the pressure of your tires during long finals.
The hub of 85 mm is a "long" adjustment room. In karting, the choice of the hub length is directly related to the leverage exercised on the axle:
Stability and Grip: With 85 mm, you increase the rigidity of the rear train and removing the load outward. This is the ideal tool for more moving output output or to expand your back path without stacking spacers (which weakens the assembly).
R2.0 version: This name indicates an evolution of design at CRG (best machining, optimized weight and anodized finish "Gold" for higher resistance to corrosion).
The wheel hub is the critical interface between your kart axle and the rim. In the categories Mini, cadet or bambino (using 25 mm axles), the rigidity and accuracy of mounting the hub are capitally. This model CRGIn black anodized aluminum, offers excellent torsion resistance while remaining lightweight, ensuring efficient power transmission and good handling.
With its 125 mm longThis hub is designed for configurations requiring significant wheel offset or increased rear train rigidity.
The axle 40 mm: Standard on some club chassis or specific categories, it requires hubs suitable for this diameter.
The length 125 mm: It's a "long" hub. It offers colossal support. It is ideal if you need to load the rear axle for more moving output or to expand the track without spacers.
In karting, the choice of the length of the hub (here 75 mm) directly influences the leverage exercised on the axle. A longer hub (75 mm versus 40 mm) changes the rear train rigidity and expands the path without necessarily using spacers. For the mini / cadet categories (25 mm axle), it is a centerpiece to find the good compromise between grip (adhesion) and curve passage speed.
The hub of 35 mm long is considered a "short hub". In karting, The choice of hub length is a fundamental adjustment tool:
Short hub (35 mm): It offers less contact surface with the axle than models of 75 or 90 mm. This usually allows to have a "freer" behavior of the rear train, Helping the chassis to be free from curve, Ideal on tracks with a lot of grip (adhesion).
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The hub of 95 mm is one of the longest models available in the range CRG. In karting, the length of the hub is directly correlated to the "lever arm" applied to the axle:
Deported support: With 95 mm, you drop the load of the wheel outwardly. This helps to charge the rear train in support more, ideal for tracks where you miss moving out of turn.
Aluminum rigidity: Unlike magnesium, this aluminum version offers high structural stiffness and excellent durability, while being easier to maintain and less sensitive to oxidation. Finishing Gold (anodized) effectively protects the part against premature wear.
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